Craigends of the 20th Century a Renfrewshire estate remembered

Craigends is ancient. It is thought that from the time of Robert the Bruce the lands of Craigends were the property of the Knock family (ancestors of John Knox the reformer).

Sometime during the 15th century Craigends moved in to the possession of Lord Kilmaurs. This inheritance was most likely because of his loyalty to King James III. On the 4th of February 1479 he granted "the lands of Wester Craganys (Craigends)", to his second son William Cuninghame.

The old estate

William became the first laird of Craigends. The first mansion house (pictured below) was built around this time; it would be the home of his descendents for over 400 years.

The Cuninghame's resided at Craigends, through turbulent times.

Living through wars, feuds (the 3rd Laird was murdered, at the hands of a rival family), rebellions and reformations it is remarkable that the Craigends title passed uninterrupted, from father to son, for 11 generations. Over the centuries the family attained increasing influence in the Renfrewshire area and beyond: by the 17th century the Cuninghame's possessed the majority of the farming land of Kilbarchan parish, and had gained estates in Jamaica and the West Indes. These tobbacco plantations, run on the back of slave labour, provided a revenue for the Cuninghames for decades to come.

Despite their exploitations, at home-and-abroad, in the early part of the 19th century "at Craigends they lived lives of plants warmed by the sun and bedewed by the rain; utterly regardless of the great world; knowing indeed nothing of it and, what is more, apparently caring less." ¹ However, with the onset of the industrial revolution that was soon to change.

The modern estate

In 1856 William - the 15th Laird - sold the Craigends esate, and his title, to his wealthy uncle the Iron and Coal Master Alexander Cuninghame, one half of the successful mining company Merry & Cuninghame. With the almost limitless wealth that he had gained during the industrial revolution Alexander immediately comissioned a new mansion to replace the old house.

Designed by the famous Scottish architect David Bryce in the Scottish Baronial style, the new Craigends House, located less than 50m from its predecessor, was a far larger and grander building. Designed to show the wealth and taste of its inhabitants, no expense was spared in its design and construction, and it is recognised today as prehaps the finest 19th century Baronial mansion in all of Scotland.

Alexander enjoyed the new house for only a few years. He died in 1866, and his title was passed it to his only remaining son, John Charles Cuninghame.

The last laird

At the tender age of 15, John Charles Cuninghame became the 17th and ultimately last Laird of Craigends. John Charles dedicated his early life to the habits of the modern elite (hunting, travelling, military service, running businesses) and remained a bachelor until his 48th year. It is likely that much of his time was spent away from Craigends, but a change of lifestyle at the turn of the century likely marked a return to more domestic affairs.

In 1900, aged 47, John Charles retired from the Renfrewshire Militia, and the following year he married his cousin-once-removed, Alison Pearson. In the years that followed Laird and Lady Craigends hosted a number of large social events in the house and grounds, most notably the Great Political Fete of 1907. However, if there were any attempts to produce an heir, they were unsuccesful, and when John Charles died on the day after his 65th birthday, in 1917, the ancient lineage of the Lairds of Craigends came to an end.

The widow of Craigends

John Charles' personal fortune, valued at just short of £1 million at the time of his death (a remarkable sum in those days), was inherited by his widow. Over the following decades this wealth diminished: Merry & Cuninghame liquidated in 1931, and, at the outset of World War II Craigends was requisitioned by the army. The farmland was turned over to the land army and Ms Cuninghame and her sister Ms Pearson were consigned to the family wing.

But despite these fluctuations, Alison still maintained a substantial wealth and maintained the mores of the gentry for years to come. The pair grew to be old ladies. Living alone in the grand mansion house, accompanied only by their servant staff, they became increasingly remote in a rapidly modernising world. In 1959 Alison died, at the age of 88, and was followed just three years later by her sister. She was 93. They were buried together, alongside Alison's late husband John Charles, in Kilbarchan New Cemetry.

A derelict estate

The estate and most of the remaining fortune were inherited by a nephew. Not having the means to maintain the mansion house, though, the house contents were soon after sold at auction, and the house was left empty.

For several years the gardens were maintained, to the delight of locals who enjoyed walking through the grounds. Some were surprised to find the house open, and explored the magnificent suites of rooms with their beautiful plaster ceilings and parquet floors. The abandoned estate became a fairytale playground, a picturesque attraction, an icon of Renfrewshire.

Sadly, to save on rents, the owners took the fatal decision to remove the roof from the grand house. The mansion quickly fell in to a dilapidated state. Just a few years later, in 1966, the ruined shell of the once grand house was deemed dangerous and was largely destroyed. Only the front entrance and a pile of rubble were left as testament to what once existed.

Meanwhile, the estate had been sold for £1 million to the housing corporation Taylor Woodrow.

The housing estate

In 1973, Taylor Woodrow started construction on the first housing estate: Ardgryffe Crescent. To make way for the new "developments" much of the ancient character of the estate was lost: the muralled stables, the turreted gate houses, and the remaining tower of Craigends House were, in turn demolished.

To protect Craigends' ancient and precious woodlands the entire estate was placed under a Tree Preservation Order (TPO No.26) in 1965. The early housing developments of the 70s and early 80s appeared to, in large, respect this but with the lure of large profits, in the 90s this restraint was eroded. Despite the objection of the local community and Renfrewshire Council great swathes of ancient woodland were clear-felled to accomodate new developments: most notably Beatrice Gardens, Carmalite Lane, Thistle Lane and Cunningham Gardens. Hundreds of protected "class A" trees were destroyed, taking with them much of the beauty and unique character of Craigends.

At the close of the century this period of expansive house-building appears to have finally come to an end. And Craigends - now home to thousands of people - starts a new chapter in its history...

1. James Durham, The Diary of John Cuninghame 13th Laird of Craigends