Craigends of the 20th Century a Renfrewshire estate remembered

Craigends is an ancient estate.

Situated at the confluence of the Gryffe and Locher rivers, Craigends (or "Kragans", "Craganis", "Craigens" as it has been variously known), has been a place of historical significance since the days of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace.

It is known that during the fourteenth century Craigends was the possession of the Knoxes of Ranfurly (ancestors of John Knox "the great Reformer of Scotland"). However, during the fifteenth century the lands were granted to Lord Kilmaurs (possibly a reward for his loyalty to King James III). He in turn he gifted the estate to his second son William Cuninghame, who in 1479 became the first in a long line of Cuninghames of Craigends.

Cuninghames of Craigends

It is thought that William built the first mansion on the grounds at this time. But his house would have been one built for defence, rather than beauty. Its fortification and secret recesses spoke of the turbullent times the Cuninghames lived through: the second laird died in battle fighting the English at Flodden Field; his son was assassinated by a rival family, within the estate grounds; the 7th laird was imprisoned - and almost bankrupted - for assisting the Protestant faith. But through all the upheavals of 16th and 17th century Renfrewshire the one thing that remained consistent was the Cuninghames of Craigends.

For eleven generations the Craigends title passed uninterrupted from father to son, and over the centuries the family increased it's wealth and influence.

West Indes estates

In the 18th century, like many other landed families of the time, the Cuninghames purchased sugar plantations in the West Indes. These plantations, made profitable only by the exploitations of hundreds of slaves, made the Cuninghames rich. In contrast to their cruel exploitations we are assured that "at Craigends they lived lives of plants warmed by the sun and bedewed by the rain; utterly regardless of the great world; knowing indeed nothing of it and, what is more, apparently caring less." ¹

With their riches they made a number of stately additions to their estate: the walled gardens (built 1777); the Gryffe bridge (built 1790). This wealth, however, was nothing compared to the fortunes the family was to make during the industrial revolution.

Iron and coal masters

In the early 19th century Alexander Cuninghame, the second son of John Cuninghame, the 13th laird, cofounded an Iron and Coal mining business that became one of the largest in Scotland: Merry and Cuninghame. His wealth became so great that in 1856 he purchased the Craigends estate and title, from his nephew, William Cuninghame, the 15th.

A new Mansion House

Alexander commisioned a new mansion to replace the house which his ancestors had lived in for almost 400 years. No expense was spared in its design and construction. The eminent Scottish architect Bryce envisioned a far larger and grander building than it's predeceasor, which showed "the wealth and taste of its inhabitants". In this measure it was a success: today, Craigends House is recognised as the finest Scottish Baronial mansion of it's time. Sadly for Alexander, however, he enjoyed his new house for only a few years. He died in 1866, and his title passed to his only remaining son, John Charles Cuninghame.

The last laird

John Charles Cuninghame became laird at the tender age of 15. He dedicated his life to the habits of the modern elite: hunting, travelling, military service, running businestes. He led an exceptionally busy lifestyle, and as the owner of a number of residences across Scotland and London, it is likely that only a minority of his time was spent at Craigends.

It wasn't until his 48th year that he was eventually married to his cousin-once-removed Alision Pearson. The couple became high players in society. In the years after their marriage they hosted a number of notable events at Craigends House, most notably the Great Political Fete of 1907. However, if there was any attempt to produce a child from this marriage it was unsuccesful. And so when John Charles died in 1917, the day after his 65th birthday, the long lineage of the Lairds of Craigends came to an end.

Ms Cuninghame and Ms Pearson

John Charles' estate, valued at just under £1 million at the time of his death, was inherited by his widow, Alison Cuninghame. In the decades following it is known that Alison stayed primarily at her luxurious residence in Mayfair, London (25 Hill Street, Berkeley Square) with her sister Helen Laura Pearson. It is remarkable that, at this time, the magnificent Craigends House was seen only as a "summer house". However, things would change with the onset of World War II.

During the London Blitz Mrs Cunignhame's Mayfair residence was bombed, and the ladies retreated to Craigends, where they took up permenant residence. But the effects of the war had also reached Craigends: the British Army requisitioned Craigends House to aid the war effort, and Ms Cuninghame and Ms Pearson were consigned to the family wing. This must have felt like quite a relegation for the ladies who had only years before been entertaining high society, including - it is believed - royalty.

Over the decades much of their fortune had diminished. Once the army left Craigends in the late 40s, it is probable that the house had suffered damage and neglect, and it is likely that Mrs Cuninghame's trustees sold her Mayfair residence at this time to help cover costs. Living in the grand mansion house with only their servant staff for company the pair grew to be old ladies, increasingly remote in a rapidly modernising world. In 1959 Mrs Cuninghames died, at the age of 88, and was followed just three years later by her sister. She was 93. They are buried together, alongside the late John Charles, at Kilbarchan New Cemetry.

Dereliction

Upon Ms Pearson's death Craigends estate was inherited by a distant relation: William ("Bill") Cuninghame. Bill lacked the means or desire to maintain the now obsolete mansion house and later that year the house contents were sold at auction and the house was left empty.

From this time no effort was made to keep people out of the estate and gradually locals began to discover and explore the grounds. Some were surprised to find the house open, and explored the magnificent suites of rooms. For many the abandoned estate became a fairytale playground, a picturesque attraction, and an icon of Renfrewshire.

Meanwhile, though, the estate had been sold (for a reputed £1 million) to the housing corporation Taylor Woodrow. Within a short time, the new owners took the fatal decision to strip the tiled roof from the mansion - perhaps to save on tax charges. Exposed to the elements the mansion quickly became delapidated and unsafe and just a few years later, in 1966, the ruined shell of the once grand house was largely destroyed. Only the entrance gable and a pile of rubble were left as testament to what once existed.

A new housing estate

In 1971, Taylor Woodrow started construction on the first housing estate: Ardgryffe Crescent. To make way for the new "developments" much of the ancient character of the estate was lost: the muralled stables, the turreted gate houses, and the remaining tower of Craigends House were, in turn demolished.

To protect Craigends' ancient woodlands the entire estate was placed under a Tree Preservation Order (TPO No.26) in 1965. The early housing developments of the 70s and early 80s appeared to, in large, respect this but with the lure of large profits in the 90s this restraint was eroded. Despite the objection of the local community and Renfrewshire Council great swathes of ancient woodland were clear-felled to accomodate new developments: most notably Beatrice Gardens, Carmalite Lane, Thistle Lane and Cunningham Gardens. Hundreds of protected "class A" trees were destroyed, taking with them much of the beauty and unique character of Craigends.

At the close of the millenium the period of expansive house-building appears to have come to an end. And Craigends - now home to thousands of people - starts a new chapter in its history...